Faucets

A faucet is a valve you operate thousands of times a year, and it fails the way all hard-working valves do: seals wear, cartridges foul, finishes corrode. The good news is that faucet anatomy is standardized enough that most problems have a known part and a short fix.

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This section covers kitchen and bathroom faucets: repair, cartridge replacement, new installation, and the judgment call between reviving an old faucet and replacing it with one that will outlast the repair.

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Signs You Need This Service

Faucet symptoms and their usual causes:

Dripping after shutoff. Worn cartridge, washer or seat: the classic, and the one that quietly bills you all year.
Low flow at this faucet only. Clogged aerator or fouled cartridge; whole-house low flow is a pressure problem, not a faucet problem.
Temperature hard to control. A worn or scale-bound cartridge, especially in single-handle and shower-adjacent designs.
Handle stiff, loose or spinning. Cartridge splines or handle hardware: small parts, quick fixes.
Water at the base or under the sink. O-rings at the spout base, or supply connections below. Worth prompt attention because cabinets rot quietly.
Noise: squealing or hammering. Worn washers singing under flow, or arrestor-worthy hammer when the faucet closes fast.

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Common Causes

Repair or replace? The faucet math:

Cartridge availability. Major brands keep cartridges available for decades; a faucet with a live parts supply is nearly always repairable.
Body and finish condition. Corroded bodies, pitted finishes and stripped threads argue for replacement; internals can be renewed, bodies cannot.
Age and repeat visits. A second cartridge in an old builder-grade faucet often costs more than stepping up to better hardware.
Water quality context. Hard water eats cartridges; if scale killed this one early, softening is the systemic answer and the faucet is the symptom.

Service Details & What's Included

The work this section covers:

Faucet repair. Cartridges, washers, seats, O-rings, aerators and handles: diagnosis plus the part, with flow and leak checks after.
Faucet installation and replacement. Kitchen and bath replacements including supply lines and shutoff stops. The right moment to replace seized stops is while the faucet is off.
Specialty installs. Pot fillers, bar faucets, touchless and filtered-water faucets, each with their own supply and mounting requirements.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does the faucet drip after I shut it off?

The sealing part (cartridge, washer or seat) no longer seats. It only gets worse, and the water bill keeps score. The repair is usually a single part and a short visit.

Should I repair or replace the faucet?

Repair when parts exist and the body is sound; replace when the body or finish is failing, parts are gone, or repair pricing approaches decent new hardware. The honest quote shows both when the case is close.

Why is only one faucet low-flow?

Because the restriction is local: aerator screen or cartridge, occasionally the stop valve under the sink. Clean or replace the local part; if the whole house is weak, the diagnosis moves to Water Pressure & Valves.

Can a cartridge cause both leaks and temperature problems?

Yes. The cartridge is the faucet's brain: it mixes and it seals. Scale and wear make it do both jobs badly, which is why one part fixes what looks like two problems.

Do you install customer-supplied faucets?

Commonly yes, with the standard caveat: fit and product quality ride with the product's owner. Compatibility with the sink's holes, supplies and stops is verified before work starts.

Faucet Service

Name the faucet's location, brand if known, and the symptom. Cartridge-era faucets usually mean a one-visit fix.

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